American oysters don’t grow pearls. They get wrapped up in the myth of course, and people still look in vain, but it’s a different animal altogether, and if you want something shiny, you’re going to have to be satisfied with the experience of the thing.

If you want a pearl in your oyster, bring an old friend or open a good bottle of wine. If you want a pearl in your American oyster, then take your time, examine the soft wet flesh of the creature you’re about to eat and give thanks. Hold the shell gently as you breathe in the smell of the bay it was harvested in and bring it to your lips like it’s precious.

Open your mouth and let the cold flesh spill onto your tongue before gently biting into it to release every ounce of sweetness the damn thing has to offer. Chew slowly, your eyes open and your hands relaxed, as you let each part of your tongue connect: salty, sweet, umami. Taste them all before you swallow and then lean back in your chair and look up at the ceiling.

Have a sip of Champagne or a slosh of beer and let it sit in your mouth for just a moment longer. Smile as you look down at the plate and consider which one to eat next.

There’s your pearl.